New Hampshire Mazda Car Dealers

What was the actual selling price and what was the full MSRP? You say OTD but that includes tax and all states are different. 10% tax in Chicago versus 0 state sales tax in NH. How much was the dealer admin fee? Some states limit to under $100, some states don't limit and dealers charge upwards of $300-$500. As you can see, these factors would make a tremendous difference. Without such data I don't see how anyone can comment on your deal.

I just purchased a liquid silver 2010 CX-9 Touring AWD w/All weather mats, roof rails and remote start. I was able to obtain a pin for the S-plan program, which really made things simple. With this plan, I was able to pay invoice (dealer cost not including holdback) for any car a dealer had on the lot (could not find a car elsewhere on this plan). I ended up paying the following: $30901 for the car (includes a $100 dollar fee for a runner to move my registration docs as I Iive in VT but purchased near Boston at Quirk Imports) $1000 trade on '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee (above Kelly blue book trade- in value by ~$200) $62 registration $299 doc fee $1794.06 tax OTD price: $32056.06 (I took 60 month 0% financing, so the $1000 cash incentive could not be combined). For what it's worth, before I had the pin, I emailed 12 dealers in VT, NH, and MA for price quotes. Only three replied to me (I had specificied the exact car I was looking for in terms of trim, options, and color). Very dissappointing. Of the dealers that responded, two of them came in exactly $1000 over invoice and would not budge from there (the third was $2K over invoice). The only other difference was in the doc fee (ranged from 50 to 300). I don't think Mazda is having trouble selling these cars in the Northeast (North of Boston anyway) and if you can get a car around invoice you are doing well. I ended up going with the out of state dealer as they were the closest one with CX-9s matching our needs. In fact, only one CX-9 was found at both the VT dealers. Out here, I would be suprised if you could get them at invoice (you'd need a dealer with lots of inventory), but to get them to also cough up their holdback would be truly impressive. Bottom line for me is I got a great car at invoice and couldn't be happier to be done with the experience (I hate the buying process...I'm glad I only do it once every six years or so). Good luck to all as you shop around. Zoom-Zoom

Was looking two weeks ago and sent email requests for out-the-door prices (recommended by these forums) to about 6 dealers. I was trading in my 2000 MPV (157K miles) as Cash for Clunkers. Got a good price from Tully Mazda in NH ($11,653 + TTL + all-weather mats + rear bumper plate), but since that was a hike, waited to get more prices. Nobody else really gave me a good price. Friday morning I called and the car was gone. There were questions whether CfC would get more money, plus MA tax rate was going up, plus the $1750 Mazda rebate was ending, so I wanted to do it. More calls during Friday and found only one available 60 miles away. The dealer said that he had a customer willing to pay $12,900 for it, so that was it. The next week Congress gives another $2B and I'm back in the market. I check Mazda inventory within 50 miles on the website and there are 10 with manual shift. This past Friday I send some emails back to the dealerships again. This time I get a response from Ira Mazda (20 miles away) with an OTD price of $18,160. I respond back that I'm doing CfC, so I subtract the $4500 + $500 from Mazda, plus the difference in Sales Tax, and it is less than $12,000, which I think is pretty good since I thought the $1750 went away. I send him my figures and he agrees. I'm waiting to see if more dealers respond. I talk to a different NH dealer (Werner Mazda) who had 2 available, but he wants $500 over list because he says the list price is going up for the 2010's so he feels he can get the increase early. I told him I was not interested because I already got a much better price. Wellesley Mazda is the closest, but they want $17,000 + $444 doc fees (ignoring the CfC component). I'm getting antsy because I don't want to lose the Ira car too, so the next day I drive up and end up getting it. The deal was even better because I (and the internet guy) didn't know about the $150 you get for the salvage value of the clunker. It ended up being right around $11,670 + TTL. The salesman was busy but he was good. I'd recommend them. Just picked it up today, after the dealer got the authorization for CfC. Since I am transferring plates, I still have to go back one more time to pick up the registration and sticker (and for them to install the bumper step plate since it had to be ordered). Checked the Mazda inventory website again, and it still shows 10 available Manual Shift, so I don't know how accurate it is. (Hope this message wasn't too wordy)

Considering to buy a Mazda 3 Sport (Manual) in NH, i was wondering if the Money Factor changes according to the dealers or state or month? What is for this month? What's the Residual value for Mazda 3 sport, 36 or 42 month lease? All i want to do is drive mazda 3s with monthly payment around $179. How much down do i have to put it in? If someone could answers these questions i would really appreciate it !

My personal take is that extended warranties are a scam (even if the warranty company doesn't go bankrupt, something that most of them seem to do). In my case, I got suckered into buying an extended warranty (that went to 100,000 miles) on a car I bought in 1988 (which I happened to drive almost exactly 100,000 miles), and between the cost of the warranty and the $100 cap on a per service visit, the warranty ended up costing me more than twice what it would have if I had paid for the repairs. Since that time my wife and I have purchased eight cars, all of which were offered with an extended warranty (and all of which expired at no more than 100,000 miles), and we took a pass on every one. Taking the total of the warranty contracts that I didn't purchase (which doesn't count the per service visit charges), I come up with a figure of about $18,000. Against that, those eight cars have required about $4,500 in maintenance making for a savings of at least $13,500. Or does it? Of those repair charges, about $3,800 came when the vehicles had well over 100,000 miles on them which means that the repairs wouldn't have been covered anyway, and that means that over the last fifteen years I've saved over $17,000, enough to buy a new car. Long story short, an extended warranty may work out to the owner's advantage on any one car, however, I'm betting that over 99% of the driving public would make out better over their driving life if they simply self-insured. Best regards, Shipo