South Dakota Infiniti Car Dealers

The MSDs should be the total payment (including tax), rounded up to the next $50 increment... If $390 is your actual payment after the MSD money factor reduction, then each security deposit should be $400.. But, if your payment is $390 + $30 tax = $420, then each SD is $450. Some dealers get this wrong... if they check with BMWFS, they should be able to clear it up.. regards, kyfdx

Hi Miker - I am no expert on leases, but I can share a few thoughts with you.. also, you should peruse this forum for tons of great info.. usually the best info is repeated over and over, so you should be able to get up to speed if you read the 15-20 most recent pages.. (quick reads). Now specifically as to what you asked: The MSD is multiple security deposits. They are not allowed in a few states (like New York), but are allowed in most states (I am in california and they definitely are allowed). Essentially, the theory is that if you put down more than 1 security deposit (and each security deposit or "SD") is equal to a month's payments, it will reduce the money factor (which is essentially the interest rate on the lease). The formula is for every SD you add, it will reduce the MF by .0001. The max # of SDs is 7 (in cali, at least). So, essentially, if you put down 7 SDs at the beginning of the lease, you reduce the MF by 0.0007, which can be a substantial savings on the interest rate (and monthly payment). Now, a few things to remember about the Money Factor: (1) the residual value (RV) on a lease is not negotiable. It is determined by THE BANK and wont be up for discussion. (2) the MF is negotiable. The better your deal on the front end (ie, negotiating a killer price on the capitalized cost or the price of the car), the more likely they will try to screw you on the MF. I found that I had to give a little back to the dealer on the MF or I had to allow them to raise the cap cost (3) You get the MSD amount at the end of the lease when you turn the car in. Stolen or totaled cars would lead to a loss of the MSD amount. (4) You can give them the cash for the MSDs up front, so you lose the opportunity cost of giving that money to infiniti for 3-4 years (depending on length of the lease). Someone previously figured it out and it turns out if you get 5% return for that money in the bank, you are going to end up saving money because of the reduction in the lease interest rate. So, that being said (and please look elsewhere to confirm the above), the process should be as follows: (1) get current MF and RV from Car_man right here on this forum for the mileage and term of the lease you want (most people ask for 3 terms or so). (2) negotiate the best cost of the car you can (usually do this over the internet with at least 3 dealers). Remember that they are trying to push out the 07s to make way for the 08s which will be priced higher (3) Remember that the dealers get $1500 incentives back from infiniti for the M35s on a sale, but not on the lease, so if you dont tell them you are leasing, they will tell you (possibly) that they cant honor the price they gave you.... or, they will try to screw you on the MF when they find out you are leasing. For me, the cap cost on the car I got was fantastic (well below invoice), but the original MF they quoted me on the car was much much higher than what the MF should have been. In other words, according to car_man, the MF on the M35 BASE 15k mi 42 month lease in Sept shouldve been .00107. With 7 MSDs, I shouldve gotten the lease at .00107-.0007 =.00037. They originally quoted me a MF of .0017 and I had to negotiate the MF to .0006 or something close to that. This is the critical piece of the negotiation. For me, the 7 MSDs = $4500. (4) Pay nothing down (critical), pay your first month+acq fee (595)+ttl+MSDs. For me, with the #'s I quoted, on a 42 mo lease, the monthly payment is 580. It was the best deal for me. (5) Whatever deal they give you, tell them the numbers just arent making sense to you (if they push, tell them the MF or the cap cost isnt what you had hoped -- remember, they dont know that the MF is available on the internet-- this was the thing that pissed off my dealer more than anything), pack up and slowly walk out the door. Then they will give you another offer that will be their best. (6) Drive off happy. The only other thing is that there are lease calculators you can download and use when you are working the numbers.. I used one from carbuyingtips.com. It really helped me as I could look at all the numbers and see that it made sense. I brought my laptop in to the dealership and had it running the whole time. Finally, DONT PUT ANYTHING DOWN AS A DOWNPAYMENT TO LOWER YOUR MONTHLY PAYMENTS - USE THE MSDs Hope this helps and remember I am no expert. I dont even know if my deal was a good one or not. It worked for me, so at some point, I just said, maybe it isnt THE BEST deal ever, but close enough that I can live with it and drive my car with a smile. Cheers!

I was quoted for G35 Journey/Nav/Prem MSRP 37815 Selling price 34230 MF .00227 Residual 55% 39 mons 18000/yr 0 down 0 SD Is the MF and Res look right? Other posting seems to suggest the MF should be lower?

I ended up getting a fully loaded g35 sedan - prem, nav, tech, perf wheels/tires. The sales price was invoice $35,233 (MSRP was $38,615), buy rate MF, 0 down, 0 SD, just first payment and registration, etc. $910 drive off and $566 per month after tax for 24 months - 15k miles per year.

Today I signed the lease for g35 journey with premium, nav, tech and perf. tires package with 9 SD @461/month (including taxes) for 15k miles /yr for 39 months. My agreed upon value was $300 over invoice ($35637) and bank fee ($595) I paid as part of drive off $6836. This forum helped me a lot. Let me know how did I do???