Now that you've bought that beautiful new car, how do you plan to take care of it? When the need for vehicle maintenance or accident repair arises, Edmunds.com features a national directory of auto repair shops to help you locate a trustworthy mechanic in your area. Search our listings of auto repair shops in Wasilla, Alaska and compare prices and services to find the best deal at the most convenient location. With all the time and effort that went into buying your new car, it's important to find an auto repair shop you can trust.
Wasilla, Alaska Auto Repair Shops
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Other Matanuska Susitna County, Alaska Auto Repair Shops
Maintenance & Repair
Whew! I feel your pain I was in Anchorage till a few months ago and it was where I had my Ody's worked on. I will say that when I got to Anc 2006 they had the best service department I'd ever seen (period), but before I left they were threatening layoffs for the workers and the whole attitude changed. The "economy" was causing them to try and earn more through their service deparment. I had trouble with a spare tire replacement they cut my spare tire putting wiring for a trailer hitch lights and wouldn't fix the spare bcs it wasn't under warranty, and they cut the spare, it made no sense they were going to charge me $400 to fix something they broke??? So I was glad to be outta there. The only other good place I got service was Kendal Ford in Wasilla, but it was a diesel and Ford treats diesel owners a little different... I have had brake issues with my Ody and had to turn the brakes at 37k, and I put on very high quality ceramic brakes from wagner.
I'll second that. Class-III works great! I purchased mine (Curt 13147) on Amazon for $137.20 and installed it myself - it took about an hour and the only "specialized" tool it required was a Dremel with a grinding stone to enlarge the frame holes from Class II to Class III. I picked up my wiring harness from eTrailer as well ($39.99... even to Alaska!). If your total weight is 1500#, you'll be just fine without trailer brakes, but be sure to leave more distance between you and whatever you might hit if you don't stop in time because your braking distance will increase, from what I can tell, by probably 30%. I tested out my trailer, partially loaded, last night (probably 900# total at that point) and it pulled flawlessly. Braking was not noticeably impacted, but I did not do a panic stop from 55-60 mph. The transmission does have cooler lines into the radiator. If you plan to tow regularly and for long distances, an additional cooler as always a good idea. If not, you likely do not need one. A friend of mine towed 2000# on a 2000 Forester from Washington DC to Wasilla, AK several years back. They had no problems on the trip, but about six months later the transmission went out. It was under warranty and, since they were within manufacturer spec for towing, it was replaced under warranty (though I'm still convinced that it was that trip that killed the tranny). I start my trip tonight, and so far the car pulls the trailer very well, so we shall see how it does when fully loaded. Of course, there will be photos!
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