Locate an Auto Repair Shop in Flagstaff, Arizona

Here in Flag the prices are $3.59 -$3.69 for regular just off the I40...in town a ways you can drop down to $3.39; however, I'm seeing that creep to $4 happening daily....and a client of mine who owns a gas/mini mart thinks $5 is not too far off

Jobs, Schmobs. Anytime any industry tails off, the people get other work. Americans adapt. Solar and Wind are not unreliable at all, when placed in the correct locations. Albuquerque (and other places) get 300+ days of sun per year....how "unreliable" would solar be in those towns? NOT VERY UNRELIABLE AT ALL. 10 sunniest cities Annual percent of possible sunshine 1. Yuma, Arizona 90% 2. Las Vegas, Nevada 85% 3. Phoenix, Arizona 85% 4. Tucson, Arizona 85% 5. El Paso, Texas 83% 6. Flagstaff, Arizona 79% 7. Fresno, California 79% 8. Reno, Nevada 79% 9. Sacramento, California 78% 10. Albuquerque, N.M. 76% Lots of cities and locales (I posted a chart last week) get daily wind averaging more than 12 MPH - how "unreliable" is wind in those areas? NOT VERY UNRELIABLE AT ALL. 10 windiest cities Avg annual wind speed in mph 1. Blue Hill Observatory, Massachusetts 15.4 2. Dodge City, Kansas 14.0 3. Amarillo, Texas 13.5 4. Rochester, Minnesota 13.1 5. Casper, Wyoming 12.9 6. Cheyenne, Wyoming 12.9 7. Great Falls, Montana 12.7 8. Goodland, Kansas 12.6 9. Boston, Massachusetts 12.5 10. Lubbock, Texas 12.4 Gary says, "So we get the negative benefits in the global air quality and lose the good benefits of cheaper power. So how smart is that? " I only understand HALF of that......How is getting "negative benefits" a smart thing?

Rav4 4wd base, OTD 24500 in Arizona, that's what we go in the end. Local dealer, Findlay's Toyota in Flagstaff agreed to match the best offer I was able to solicit online, I was at it 2 days, I started with truecar.com and continued by email and phone. Thumbs up to local dealer, and big thanks to Hatch, Right, Power and Bell Road for their grat online quotes.

We get winter snow in the New Mexico mountains. There are days when you can't get near our house without AWD Over the last 18 years we have had five Subies and two Audi's. A few observations: 1. Historically, BOTH manufacturers delivered most of their cars with crap tires. I almost always ended up replacing the OEM tires with better summer or all season rubber. 2. We always have one car that stays in New Mexico. I buy an extra set of wheels with Blizzaks for that car and stack them at the back of my garage. I swap the summer and winter wheels every fall and spring. The whole job takes about 45 minutes. Not as extravagant as it sounds. I buy decent wheels, so I spend about $1000 for four wheels and tires. But, the tire portion of that investment is not wasted. Because I am using each set of tires about half the year, I am basically buying the winter tires INSTEAD of spending the same money on the second set of all season's I would otherwise have needed. 3. In winter weather, the most important thing isn't "going." It is stopping and turning -- especially on ice. I have gotten caught out on all season tires in both Subies and Audis. I was always able to get through the snow I encountered, but stopping and turning were scary. There is NO substitute for winter tires in snow and ice. 4. Well, almost no substitute. We bought a new model 2010 Legacy GT last fall. We already had a superb "snow" car (2005 Outback XT w. Blizzaks). The GT was to be used for high speed driving across the CA, AZ and NM deserts -- just the kind of driving that simply kills winter tires. But, it also had to be able to be able to cope with the snow and ice it would encounter in the New Mexico winter. The solution was a set of new Continental DWS (Dry, Wet Snow) tires. Tire Rack tests had showed that these are in a whole different class than other all season tires for winter driving. Perhaps halfway between normal all seasons and proper winter tires. Tire Rack was right. Two winters now, and we have been amazed at the winter performance of these tires. They are not the equal of proper winter tires, but they are in a different league than any other all season tire I have ever driven. We recently got caught in near blizzard conditions all the way from Flagstaff to Santa Fe. With world-class AWD, the Conti's and steering that gives great feedback as to what was going on down there, the 2010 Legacy was king of the road. The Conti tires have markers in their tread that allow you to track tread wear. When you can no longer see the "S" marker, you will have lost their extra snow capabilities. I now have 17,000 miles on the tires and can still see the "S". So, this set will get me through this winter. Before next winter sets in, I will buy a replacement set for winter use, and use up the remaining miles on this set in warmer weather. 5. Years ago, I drove FWD Saabs in winter rallies. Once you have driven a good AWD car with proper winter tires in the snow, you will never go back. There is no comparison. A situation that would have sent me nose-first off the road in a FWD car ends up being a fun 4 wheel drift in the Subie. Bear in mind though, not all AWD systems are equal. I have great confidence in the Subie and Audi full time AWD systems. I have less confidence in the many part time systems that don't switch over to AWD until wheels start slipping. A few of these seem to work OK. Others have left me longing for a Subaru.

We have a 2004 Forester XT with about 100K on it and it's been running great and fun to drive. Last weekend when we were down in Phoenix, the car started to vibrate abruptly at idling and then the Check Engine light came on. We managed to drive back to Flagstaff but I did notice that the car lost quite a bit of power going up I17, which has a total gain of about 5000 feet in 140 miles or so. When we took the car to the dealer, they first said one of the injectors was bad and it cost about $300 to replacet. However, the replacement didn't fix the problem. They then told us that we have a burnt valve and it will cost about $3,500 to replace it and the service manager asked me if I want to talk to the sales department for a trade-in. I ask him what could be the causes of this because we've followed all the maintenance schedule and haven't even pushed the car that hard, meaning the turbo wasn't even engaged most of the time. He said that he didn't know what might be the possible causes and it could just be one of those batch that has a bad valve. This appears to me as a quality control issue. My question is: "Would we still have any possible discourse on a warranty replacement even though it's already past the 60K limit?" We tried calling 1800SUBARU3 but they were closed when we called. It appears that we're stuck with this one way or the other. Even if we decide to trade in, which we don't really intend to, they'll still take that $3,500 into consideration and will not be as flexible in negotiation knowing that we kind of have to buy from them. Any suggestions or comments will be most appreciated.